For those who don’t know, which will be most people (I was one of them until a few weeks ago) Conquest of Paradise is a part choral song written in the 90s by Vangelis, of Jon and Vengelis fame (Chariots of Fire an all that). It was written as the theme tune for the Ridley Scott film of the same name, which I’d never heard of either until I looked it up. The relevance to the here and now is that it is played as all of the athletes line up for the start of the UTMB. Oh and I love it with a passion, too.
I’ve watched now probably four or five UTMBs, and in the build up the tension is just palpable, so the slow humming and the crescendo to this music couldn’t be more fitting. It just grips you, or it does me anyway. I’ve watched people on the starting line of the UTMB absolutely overcome when the music gets going. Do listen to it and you’ll see what I mean.
I have just spent a weekend in Chamonix, at the foot of Mont Blanc. Home of the 1924 (and first ever) Winter Olympics, gateway to hundreds of miles of trail running, acknowledged home of alpinism, ski resort, gateway to the largest and highest massif in the Alps, and of course the start and finish line of the UTMB itself. Incredibly Chamonix is a town of just over 8,000 inhabitants, and yet gets over 5 million visitors a year. It is never hard to see why.
It’s my tenth of so visit to Chamonix. The first twice I went to try to summit Mont Blanc itself, at 4812 metres (15,774 feet). Unfortunately bad weather stopped both attempts. The first time we didn’t even get out of town. The second time I got a tantalising and frustrating 400 or so vertical metres from the summit before the guides turned us round due to high winds. So we have unfinished business, her and I.
The next eight times I have returned mainly as a tourist, sometimes paragliding, sometimes a bit of (road) running, and often also some trekking, but nothing too strenuous or serious. It’s a great place to just hang out and indulge yourself. Being positioned as it is in the centre of the Haute Savoie, the main three dishes you will see on every local restaurant menu are raclette, fondue, and tartiflette. All a cheese lovers delight. And I LOVE cheese, especially the local stuff. I love too the local wine, and will always try to have that as a preference too. Check out the Mondeuse if you like a good robust red like I do.
This weekend though, as you will have noticed if you saw my last blog post, I went with a purpose. I would love to try to get myself into the lottery for next year’s OCC, the miniature version of the UTMB, at 55km with a mere 3,750m of climbing. So I came to do a little trail running, but only a little, just to get the juices flowing as it were.
I set my sights on the final 7.5km stretch of the course (each of UTMB, CCC and OCC share the same final 50km or so). It is all downhill, thankfully, but that doesn’t alleviate the technical aspects of the run. It is steep, and I was to find out just how steep when on the Sunday morning I found myself stood at the top of the descent. As a guide, I tend to walk on the flat at about 15 minutes per mile. I run on the flat at between 8 and 9 minutes per mile. So running downhill must be quicker than that right? Wrong!
My first downhill mile was 16 minutes. The second 17. The course is too steep to run until about mile 3, and then the ground is rocky, dusty or scree-laden, with 170 degree switchbacks and tree roots and loose rocks too. Add to that the edge of the narrow path is so precipitous in places that a fall would result in tumbling to your death hundreds of metres down to Chamomix itself, and you can see why your footing needs to be precise and steady, as a minimum. My heart was in my mouth for most of those first two miles. Thankfully I had a brand new pair of Hoka Speedgoat trail shoes on, bought the evening before in my favourite outdoor shop in town, Snell Sports. The shoes were grippy and didn’t miss a beat. I was delighted I didn’t bring my more well worn pair along with me.
The views are stupendous too. You overlook the Argentière vallley to begin with, then the Mer de Glace, the longest glacier in the Alps, then the Aguille Rouge and the Aguille du Midi, and seemingly smouldering above them all is the summit of Mont Blanc herself. All this from a tree lined terrace that is called the Balcon du Sud, and at about 2,000m up. I got the cable car up there, naturally. But you had better not look at the views. Sure footedness is essential, particularly when you are a novice and fairly nervous descender like yours truly. So I looked firmly and surely at foot placement for every inch of the first two miles, although I did have a couple of stops for that Kodak moment. I couldn’t leave it all just to the memory bank.
Around the middle of mile 3 you pass through a beautiful little mountain café called Chalet La Floria, and after you are through here, smiling at the beauty of it all, you realise that you have passed the most dangerous and steepest section, and you can actually almost relax and enjoy it. Well, relatively speaking anyway.
I think I managed 10 or so minutes a mile for both of miles 3 and 4, smiling and deliriously happy. The last half mile or so is actually flat, along the gently tumbling banks of the glacial L’Arve River. This then takes you directly into the centre of Chamonix, and to the little street by the town hall in front of the church. The Place d’Eglise is in fact where the throngs assemble for the start, and also cross through the arch of the finish line, for the UTMB itself.
As I came running into the Place d’Eglise the music started playing in my head. It was Vangelis of course. “In Noreni per ipe, In Noreni Cora…..”. It got louder. The crowds were cheering. I stopped, bent over, sobbed. I was utterly spent, physically and emotionally. The Conquest of Paradise indeed…..let the music never end…….